A Cultural Icon

In the book Fashioning Chinese Women: Empire to Modernity and its eponymous exhibit at The Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Michaela Hansen qualifies the cheongsam as an ever evolving fashion mainstay. Both the book and the exhibit (now closed) focus on the historical evolution of fashion for Chinese women concluding with a substantial analysis of the cheongsam (Cantonese) or qipao (Mandarin). It’s safe to assert that the evolution to which Hansen alludes is irrevocably tied to women’s ongoing redefinition and reformulation of fallacies imposed by a patriarchal system.

In the book The History of Chinese Qipao Culture, Professor Liu Yu from Donghua University writes: "Initially unadorned and loosely cut, resembling Han men's robes, the Shanghai-style qipao served as a 'battle robe' inspired by male attire. It was a cry for gender equality, expressing inner aspirations through outward appearance — a symbol of female independence and liberation.”

With time, the dress transformed into the de facto garment of women who sought to communicate modernity and self-determination while maintaining a connection to their cultural character.

Female university students wearing the simple early 1940s qipao at Yenching Women’s University in Nanjing; source unknown

Two cheongsams made in Hong Kong around 1955-60 (pages 126-127 of Hansen’s book) were chosen by Jason Wu - who designed the mannequins for the exhibit- to be produced on dolls for the The Vault Series of his Atomic Lab Toys company. 

The green cheongsam, modeled by a miniature version of the exhibit’s mannequin and sold exclusively at LACMA’s store, is the focus of this November entry.

From the black textured satin box to the white gloves enclosed for the collector to wear before handling the doll, Chinoiserie speaks of care and attention to doll manufacture. The doll’s vinyl, matte and smooth, emulates the tone given to the exhibit’s mannequins while the hairstyle - a modernized raven Marcel Wave - is referential to vintage Shanghai magazine covers. 

Delicately beaded fabric emulates the green and black chiné a la branche textile of the original while genuine jade jewelry finishes this tribute to a fashion icon.

For this entry, Dolldom’s stylists selected all props for their Chinese provenance to reiterate our appreciation for the elevated standards of manufacture that produced them as well as the doll. From 1:6th scale wood furniture to decorative soapstone carvings, all the items were acquired in Chinese-owned businesses in San Francisco’s Chinatown.

A Retros Halloween Bash

"Cocktails?"

" Yes, thank you!"

Bourbon! Gin!…the scene was set for some of The Golden Age of Hollywood’s greatest to come together for a little B&G - that is Beauty and Glamour, for the uninitiated. For everyone making the scene was donning the epitome of B&G: the to this day unmatched liberating fashion insouciance of Retros by Liz Cole.

Gay! Gay! Gay! The fabulous Gay Carrington (fan-made doll with a face-up by Vincent Anthony Studio) made her entrance with Lauren - the two were coming - still ecstatic - from a impromptu singing duo performance in a secret spot in Los Feliz. Gay slithered in a dark woodsy green Lurex number with a side slit and a Lucite necklace by Exsyntrix.

“Dahlin’ you’re killing!” - Lauren whispered. Gay winked at her and whispered back: “I’m a witch, doll!”

Elizabeth Montgomery in Bewitched’s opening sequence? Sorry, but no. This was none other than Sylvia Chase, grandmother to much-later-to-be-born Sydney Chase.

In Retros’ iconic black Vampirah! gown, Sylvia added her pout (bathed in Revlon’s Love that Red) and a hat by Peggy Feltrope to a captivating fashion potion that made everyone go ape!

Now, when J.C. made her entrance, well, it was an entrance as only J.C. could do: made in the shade! Her Retros number, in dark blue and light gray print was all class with a hint of mystery befitting the Ben Cooper mask. 

“Love that you love, dear, but masks are for curtain climbers to have fun on Halloween. This mug and these peepers stay uncovered!” J.C. clamored. 

Tensions of the amorous type heightened when Lauren came back with a tuxedoed flutter bum. “He told me his name was Rock. Hard to remember as I’ve had some sauce already.” - Lauren said in her ultra seductive red skulls and bones pink sheath.

Lauren's necklace, also by Exsyntrix, told the rest of the story. 

“Rock, wait!- Gay called out in her husky voice (hear it here). May I pet your bat?”

“Sure thing, Bombshell! It’s by Exyntrix. My friend Joy knows how to craft a scene stealer.” Rock answered as he threw a half smile in a tux by Chewin Doll and sunglasses by T &E Doll Designs.

Remember Cynthia the Celebrity Mannequin? Well, this bash was much more of a blast - cause not Cynthia - but Vivian the Miniquin was there! And what a devil she was in Retros’ genius red glitter get-up! 

Though Miniquins do not talk, everyone could hear Vivian thinking: “May I have another Negroni?, as well as, “May I fork you, Dreamboat?”

What a bash! What a swell party! Could not have been without the magic of Retros’s B&G.

Dolldom thanks LizRetros for many years of plain and simple fun! 

Resources for readers:

Retros by Liz Cole

Feltrope Studios (Witch's hat)

Exsyntrix (All jewlery)

Chewin Doll (male tux)

DAE Originals (Vivian the Miniquin)

Gay Carrington (the Icon)

Vincent Anthony Studio (Gay's face-up)

A Very Dreary Halloween Adventure with Anne Fitzpatrick

 Are you ready for Halloween? Yes? So are we! Come and gather around the bonfire, for the story we are about to tell, may give you chills, but it may most probably make your heart smile! 

Chapter One

The morning was unusually warm for October, giving Anne the urge to go on a pre-Halloween walk in a it-still-feels-like-summer mindset. 

The redwoods, tall and imposing, announced the entrance to what felt like a magical realm, adorned with dragonflies, late fall berries, and a lush carpet of sheltered moss. 

Gifted with the freedom of thought that children possess, such a panorama of natural exuberance became a blank canvas for exploration and creation.

Chapter Two

The verdant path led Anne to what seemed to be, at first, a garden with statuary… or was it a shrouded cemetery? 

By a gathering of statues, a raven haired girl hummed a sunset song. Anne did her best to stay hidden and to listen to that almost silent melody, a song of a past yet to be remembered. But, almost as if she was being expected, the incessantly humming girl directed her gaze towards Anne and called: “Viktor!” 

That’s how Anne met Agnes and her twin brother Viktor both dressed as if they were from another time, from an unvisited corner of the imagination. 

The twins - in unison - invited Anne to their home and before Anne could express an intrigued affirmative response...

...the trio disappeared, leaving behind Anne’s straw hat and her Halloween pumpkin bucket.

Chapter Three

A room, lushly dark. 

Anne walked, her hands creating a little cave for her sighs to find shelter.

Movement and sound combined to create a figure, tall as the redwoods. “Greetings, Miss!” - he uttered. 

Sensei Ozu was his name and he along with Madame Martine were the twins’ language and philosophy instructors. 

Anne was both confused and captivated by their elegant somberness. 

“Soon their practice exercises will conclude and you may meet them for playtime.” - Madame Martine explained.

Chapter Four

Agnes and Viktor, immersed in the magic of make-believe, animated their bears, Memen and Tomori, by speaking on their behalf. "I feel a presence..." - Memen grunted. "There's a new shadow behind us!" - Tomori purred. 

“Anne - Agnes whispered when she saw Anne walk in - would you like to feel how Tomori's heart mumbles?  Here she is!” 

Tomori’s velvety feel reminded Anne of her grandmother’s scarf, the one that Anne would wear while dancing in her nana’s parlor. Anne was enveloped by serene familiarity and smiled.

Chapter Five

A voice - sweetly blue -  floated from amongst the shadows calling Agnes and Viktor, who again, as if by magic, had disappeared. 

The voice’s fragrance reached Anne: “Salutations, Miss! I’m Señora Sara, and you?” 

“My name is Anne Fitzgerald, glad to meet you!” - Anne responded, her own voice redolent of violets. Señora Sara was the governess and very much in charge of elegance at the twins’ manor. 

She led Anne to the greenhouse where the twins were posing to have their portraits taken. Anne was enchanted by the seemingly unending chronology of diversion taking place in this dusky realm. 

Chapter Six

“Let’s all climb atop the lion statues and be still!” - Viktor thought out loud. The twins projected their internal chiaroscuro to the silver-plated copper plate while Anne simply emanated the joy of having new friends. 

Once the image was fixed...

...Agnes took Anne by the hand and in secret eye language invited her to imagine herself as another member of their house. And off they went!

Chapter Seven

The dark corners and reflective surfaces of the twins’ playroom were perfect for the evening’s reveal. 

Agnes carried Sap Oh to its glass terrarium, while Viktor took M. Arrow to her seat, hurried by the breeze of a distant violin.  

“Bonsoir! ¡Buenas noches! Konbanwa! - laughed a girl with brown braids in a black chiffon dress adorned with a white collar and cuffs. C’est moi, Anne!” 

Agnes and Viktor gathered around her hoping to imbibe from the fountain of her humor.

To celebrate their new friend’s metamorphosis, the trio gamboled buzzing the melodies of that remote violin while the audience of amphibious and inanimate playmates chanted: 

“Happy Halloween to all!”

"B o o !"

Contributor credits and resources for readers:

Anne Fitzpatrick doll by Virtual Doll Convention on loan from the generous Joseph Coloff 

Anne's dress by Sew Sweet Designs by Janice Mundy

All jewelry by Exsyntrik

Agnes and Viktor Dreary with glass eyes by Jim Ash 

Burlap garden dress by Connie of Sweet Creations

White shirt with tie and pants with suspenders for Viktor by The Doll Workshop by Andrea Jacques. 

All hats by Peggy Feltrope