Character

Could anything else be said about the functions of a fashion doll? Serving style and fulfilling fashion dreams may be obvious, yet Dolldom appreciates a countenance for its power to evoke character, not simply for being an ideal of beauty.

The beginning of the 21st century brought forth a wealth of ideas thanks to the vision of artists like Robert Tonner who with his 1:4th scale Tyler Wentworth and Sydney Chase redefined what a doll's face could be and do to create a character. Integrity Toys and Jason Wu followed suit with the 1:6th scale Fashion Royalty line and the idea as to what a doll should convey was formed: give attitude and express emotion.

JAMIEshow Doll's Muses line, designed by Owensu, is a current exponent of the trend, one that offers collectors the highest form of refinement due largely to the precisely detailed hand painting of the resin dolls' face-ups. Although Owensu's couture is on par with the dolls' quality, Dolldom was attracted to two of the Muses due to their power to communicate spirit: Camille and Astrid.

Aware of our subjective interpretation of the ambiguity of these resin faces, we dare express why both Camille and Astrid won us over.

Camille (from La Vancanza Collection)
Camille combines heavy upper eyelids (moderate ptosis, perhaps?) that convey a subtly weary gaze while her downturned oral commissures (so often "corrected" with fillers in humans) produce a jaded pout that - to us - exemplifies the emotional detachment of a misanthropic perspective.

 
Astrid (from The Garden Party Collection)
Astrid offers a deeply cathartic combination of a saturated shiny red, downward turning, slightly open mouth (from where her front teeth peek out) and similarly oriented eyes that unequivocally remind us of religious (as opposed to drug-induced) ecstasy.

For this Dolldom exclusive, Camille and Astrid pose for a traditional photo portfolio in exquisite fashion selections by many of Dolldom's favorite designers to show what character is all about.

Designers:
Bakhtier
Dangerous Dames by Juliet Whorton
Bogue's Vogues
Franklin Lim Liao
Robert Best
Integrity Toys
Defa Lucy

R&D Doll

Special thanks to Ahmad An for his support in the making of this feature.

Coat by Defa Lucy. Separates by Integrity Toys. 

Brocaded silk separates by the unforgettable Franklin Lim-Liao. 

Dress by Integrity Toys.

Dress by Integrity Toys.

Dress by Robert Best. Hat by Bogue's Vogues.

Suit by Integrity Toys. 

Hand beaded top and skirt by the gorgeously generous Juliet Whorton for Dangerous Dames. 

Dress by Bahktier. Camille bust by Jonathan Adler. 

Dress by the groundbreaking Bahktier.

Dress by Bogue's Vogues by James Bogue.

Dress by Bogue's Vogues by James Bogue. Hat by Maryann Roy. 

Hat and dress by the incomparable James Bogue for Bogue's Vogues. 

Dress by R&D Doll by the great Rudi Teruel. 

Gown by Robert Best. 

Gown by Robert Best. 

Bogue, Bogue, Bogue!

 When the Barbie Fashion Model Collection debuted, collectors were thunderstruck by the level of quality and attention to detail that defined the line. Robert Best's elevated approach referenced vintage Barbie style while allowing the BFMC dolls to be original and fresh and to be a source of inspiration for play and for creation. 

James Bogue of Bogue's Vogue's is to this day, Dolldom's favorite independent designer for the now iconic BFMC line. In 2003, Dolldom was very lucky to profile his work in a feature in Barbie Bazaar magazine. (Do you remember paper magazines?)

For this end of April entry, Dolldom celebrates the unique style and vision of Bogue's Vogues, reprinting the story and featuring a new set of images. 

"21st century chic: Barbie models Bogue’s Vogues Designs"

Text, photos, and styling by © 2003 Ernesto Padró-Campos 

The French Provincial atelier is booming with activity. In the background, Ella sings Cole Porter like no one else can. Bouquets of Calla lilies, coral roses, and tuberose scent the air already charged with the excitement that only the visit from a fashion icon can generate. In his pewter silk moiré bergère, James Bogue, tall, blonde, and distinguished, awaits the arrival of his long time muse. 

“My source of inspiration in creating Bogue's Vogues is, as it has always been, Barbie herself. When Barbie returned to the world of high fashion with the Barbie Fashion Model line, that inspiration was renewed. Her elegant and very stylized countenance along with her modern model’s attitude make me feel like Barbie has reached her zenith. She is a 21st century idol who dreams of mid-20th century sartorial sensibilities; a modern woman who wears only the most inspired, perfectly handcrafted, and truly elegant designs, regardless of what the current fashion capers decree,”states this Texan for whom no detail on a dress, cape, or hat is ever overlooked. “My style as a designer is classic, I'd say my greatest strength is to underplay the look, as being overdressed is like putting a gaudy frame on a beautiful painting,” he ads with a smile. “The process for Bogue's Vogues begins in the imagination, the idea can be daytime, evening, or cocktail wear, then it moves onto fabric selection and the basic construction of the garment, and culminates with the finishing details which more often than not end as something very different from the initial idea, almost as if the design took on a personality of its own. The crowning glory for a look is of course, the hat. Change the hat and you change the attitude, the tone, the intention.” These are clearly the musings of an artist who lives through his art and dives into the challenges as well as the glory of his craft, all the while understating the architectural qualities of his designs as well as the exactitude of his cut. 

Suddenly, the long awaited presence of la divina materializes. Now expert couturier and iconic model can take delight in his latest creations. This ultra sophisticated collection reiterates the same affinity for understatement, handcrafting, and subtle coquetterie. The hair is coifed to follow the natural shape of the head and to accept the scarf, hat, or feathered cap that will take the whole look into the stratosphere of stupendous design. 

Welcome to 21st century chic, welcome to Bogue’s Vogues.

Bogue's Creations

Black and White: Together, Forever

The iconic look of a faux zebra skin swimsuit inspires a celebratory gesture from Robert Best for The Barbie Fashion Model Collection. "Black and White Forever" Barbie goes all out to emphasize the impact of contrast and scale - the white an black stripes are now bands in gradating widths. And what better but a bow, large and voluminous, to add an element of surprise to the back?



Barbie is as sparkling as ever with deep blue eyes, vivid red lips and a sprinkling of silver glitter on her eyelids. Her platinum hair is also streaked with raven black, gathered in an elegant chignon.













The questions is: is this a total look where doll and fashion are forever joined or can "Black and White Forever" Barbie rock other looks? We think that you already known the answer, as any teen-age fashion model worth her salt - regardless of the fact that she is 60- will jump at the opportunity to model a selection of fashions in the same evocative color scheme.

Happy 60th, Barbie doll! Here's to black and white together and forever!


A glamorous black raw silk coat and dotted tulle chapeau by Bogue's Vogues is ideal Barbie style. Add a pair of classic cat-eyes glasses and Barbie is on the go. She's vintage and she's now. Who else can meld the past and present so seamlessly? Just Barbie.


Underneath, a slender sheath in a black and white floral print with attached ruched cummerbund is seriously elegant.


Mid-century classic, reproduced by Integrity Toys for their Funny Face line, and Barbie gives Dovima a run for the money. Mother Ruth approves. Godmother Charlotte would have too.


A suit of pied-de-poule tweed - it's almost a cliché - but this time, Barbie gives Fashion Royalty's "Time and Again" duo-tone cropped jacket and skirt an unexpectedly fresh vibe.


Black and white, you say? Revisited in a cozy warm knit by HillCrestBarbies and Barbie is a delish as the eponymous cookie.

Life lesson: be simple, be elegant. When the cut is as beautiful as in this Vince Nowell asymmetrical LBD, it's easy to avoid excessive ornamentation. 

Classic cocktail: mix one part black, one part white, a good sprinkling of stars and, voilà, you get the slinky moonlit grey bias-cut "Starry Nights Mood" by Integrity Toys, made unforgettable by Barbie.


At home, relaxed, Barbie wears a comfortable silk robe by Rosina Haskell. A day of modeling done well deserves a break.

"Black and White Forever" Barbie by Robert Best - for the Barbie doll's 60th anniversary.

Pink Pride, Pink Power

As time passes, our perception of the color pink continues to evolve and connotations of a type of femininity contrived by outmoded patriarchal values disappear. As she turns 60-years old, the Barbie doll is the consummate representative of the ever controversial hue, poetically defined by the also-iconic Elsa Schiaparelli as “bright, impossible, impudent, becoming, life-giving, like all the light and the birds and the fish in the world put together.”

Designer Robert Best regales the Silkstone Barbie Fashion Model Collection with a look that would make the legendary Schiap proud and it's called "Proudly Pink". In a feat of monochromatic daring, the Barbie doll wears pink, PMS 219 - its official Pantone denomination, from head to toe. Too much pink? Absolutely no. For this is a look that epitomizes what the Barbie doll has come to signify: she is, in her unapologetic pinkness, a symbol of personal empowerment while having had to weather many a storm of criticism, ridicule, and scapegoating. With utmost pride she comes out of her dressing room exclaiming that strength comes from accepting who you are - pink, blue, green, or purple. "Proudly Pink" Barbie exhorts us to own our true colors, to be true to them, and to inspire others to do the same.



In this Dolldom exclusive, "Proudly Pink" Silkstone Barbie from the Barbie Fashion Model Collection celebrates her essential glow while demonstrating how versatile the color is when paired with black, silver, turquoise, and, of course, more pink! Be proud, be powerful, be pink!




A look for the ages - "Proudly Pink" adds another jewel to the crown of iconic Barbie doll fashion moments.


"Coquette" is all about volume - from the pouf sleeves of the blouse by Tania Lawrence to the full faille skirt by Bogue's Vogues.


"Bloomers" matches the roses from Fashionistas #92's "Retro Garden Party" and "Proudly Pink's" stretch stiletto boots.




"Night Angel" is evocative of 1980s Claude Montana. Suit by Tania Lawrence.


"Watusi" is for a night out disco dancing! In a fabulous-cause-it's-faux-fur coat from Mattel's 1996 Clueless collection, Barbie heads out to Studio 54.


Underneath, a silver mesh mini by Francesca Pigliapoco for Lotus Dolls reflects the light like the mirrored ball.


The show closes with a traditional gesture - white. But this is not a wedding dress in spite of it being Poppy Parker's "Wedding Belle's" wedding dress! Barbie edits out the veil and goes places with the polka-dotted net over satin wonder.