Couture: AFD Group Style

Ever since Mattel and Robert Best announced the introduction, the demise, and then the return (never say "comeback", as per Norma Desmond) of the line that brought Charlotte Johnson couture cachet back to the Barbie doll, independent designers have been creating complementary fashion designs to inspire collectors who love to play redressing their dolls.

Since 2011, AFD Group has been a leader in the milieu of fashion dolls specializing in exquisitely rendered likeness of the who's who in celebrity land. Their OOAK characters are much sought after for the awe-inspiring precision of execution, bold vision, and ultra-realistic design. (If you are familiar with the popular Schwabichen on Instagram, you have already fallen under AFD Group's spell!) Produced by Vasily Barbier and Sergey Amelkov, AFD Group's offerings have expanded to include red-carpet designs created with the same expert eye for detail, fit, and refinement.

AFD Group's Etsy boutique is a not-to-be-missed destination for all Barbie Fashion Model Collection and Integrity Toys connoisseurs who are seeking to build and enhance a collection with splendid gowns for their most pampered dolls.

Barbier explains that the process begins with the careful study of images of couture by the likes of Cristóbal Balenciaga and Christian Dior. He then focuses on designing and sewing a reimagined and refreshed creation. The current "Secret Garden Collection" of gowns feature luxuriant chiffon flowers inside the skirts, giving the impression of what Barbier calls an inverted bouquet, neatly gathered with a bow at the waist. For the "Flora Collection", Barbier plays with the exterior placement of blooms on willowy textiles. All AFD Group's creations pay special attention to how the dress sits on the doll, so each body sculpt (Silkstone, Poppy Parker, Fashion Royalty) has its own version of the dress.

Dolldom is honored to present three must-have gowns by AFD Group. Modeled by three uniquely special Barbie Fashion Model Collection dolls, this exclusive entry celebrates AFD Group's enthusiasm and talent for doll art.

AFD Group Design

Barbie dolls' restyles by Pink Bubbles Doll Spa

Bogue, Bogue, Bogue!

 When the Barbie Fashion Model Collection debuted, collectors were thunderstruck by the level of quality and attention to detail that defined the line. Robert Best's elevated approach referenced vintage Barbie style while allowing the BFMC dolls to be original and fresh and to be a source of inspiration for play and for creation. 

James Bogue of Bogue's Vogue's is to this day, Dolldom's favorite independent designer for the now iconic BFMC line. In 2003, Dolldom was very lucky to profile his work in a feature in Barbie Bazaar magazine. (Do you remember paper magazines?)

For this end of April entry, Dolldom celebrates the unique style and vision of Bogue's Vogues, reprinting the story and featuring a new set of images. 

"21st century chic: Barbie models Bogue’s Vogues Designs"

Text, photos, and styling by © 2003 Ernesto Padró-Campos 

The French Provincial atelier is booming with activity. In the background, Ella sings Cole Porter like no one else can. Bouquets of Calla lilies, coral roses, and tuberose scent the air already charged with the excitement that only the visit from a fashion icon can generate. In his pewter silk moiré bergère, James Bogue, tall, blonde, and distinguished, awaits the arrival of his long time muse. 

“My source of inspiration in creating Bogue's Vogues is, as it has always been, Barbie herself. When Barbie returned to the world of high fashion with the Barbie Fashion Model line, that inspiration was renewed. Her elegant and very stylized countenance along with her modern model’s attitude make me feel like Barbie has reached her zenith. She is a 21st century idol who dreams of mid-20th century sartorial sensibilities; a modern woman who wears only the most inspired, perfectly handcrafted, and truly elegant designs, regardless of what the current fashion capers decree,”states this Texan for whom no detail on a dress, cape, or hat is ever overlooked. “My style as a designer is classic, I'd say my greatest strength is to underplay the look, as being overdressed is like putting a gaudy frame on a beautiful painting,” he ads with a smile. “The process for Bogue's Vogues begins in the imagination, the idea can be daytime, evening, or cocktail wear, then it moves onto fabric selection and the basic construction of the garment, and culminates with the finishing details which more often than not end as something very different from the initial idea, almost as if the design took on a personality of its own. The crowning glory for a look is of course, the hat. Change the hat and you change the attitude, the tone, the intention.” These are clearly the musings of an artist who lives through his art and dives into the challenges as well as the glory of his craft, all the while understating the architectural qualities of his designs as well as the exactitude of his cut. 

Suddenly, the long awaited presence of la divina materializes. Now expert couturier and iconic model can take delight in his latest creations. This ultra sophisticated collection reiterates the same affinity for understatement, handcrafting, and subtle coquetterie. The hair is coifed to follow the natural shape of the head and to accept the scarf, hat, or feathered cap that will take the whole look into the stratosphere of stupendous design. 

Welcome to 21st century chic, welcome to Bogue’s Vogues.

Bogue's Creations

Fashion Model Ideal

When in 2000, Mattel debuted its Barbie Fashion Model Collection, conceptualized and designed by Robert Best, a new chapter in the Barbie doll history began. The Barbie Fashion Model Collection was a major coup for Mattel as it was referential of the 800 and 1600 lines designed by Charlotte Johnson and featured a beautifully sculpted, resin-like Silkstone body with Barbie's 1959 face sculpt. Barbie was again a luxurious doll sold in a slender box along with separate, richly-accessorized, boxed fashions. 

The Barbie Fashion Model Collection is, to date, the most coherent expression of a designer's point of view, steadfastly anchored in a palette of browns and creams, pinks, blues, gold, silver, and black. With its conclusion in 2020, the line has become a period upon which to reference Barbie's ever-evolving style as current prices on the secondary market confirm. 

Dolldom celebrates the achievements of this groundbreaking design epoch with the first installment of a portfolio of the line's highlights.

"LBD Supreme"
"Black Enchantment" from 2002 is worn by a Lingerie #6, restyled by Bobby Taylor.

"Petites Fleurs"

"Classic Cocktail Dress" from 2016 is a total look victory from hair to make-up to dress. 

"Grand Bal"
"Provençale" from 2001 set the bar high. Iconic? Absolutely. It's the right modifier for it. 

"Bon Voyage"

"Boater Ensemble" from 2013, is a tailoring tour de force. The little straw hat is an amazing piece of Barbie millinery. 

"Goddess"
"Blue Chiffon Gown" from 2017 was a glamorous vision in the line's signature hue. 

"More is More"

"Classic Black Dress" Barbie dolls, from 2016, exemplify design expertise. Only one dress (on seated doll) was released as part of the line as all others were made for international conventions.Yes, there's Dovima's gown in the background and no, it's not by Mattel.  

"It All Started at the Beach"
"Black and White Forever" from 2019 is a tribute to 1959's bathing suit color scheme.

"Glam-Bang" 

"Glam Gown", from 2016, is a platinum silver hair, brown-eyed stunner.

"A Lesson in Timeless Style"

"Blush Becomes Her" boxed fashion set as worn by a Lingerie #1 doll is a combo made in fashion heaven. 

"It's Possible"

"Gala Gown", from 2012, is an amazing achievement in doll couture. Exquisite realization of an exquisite concept. The factory got it all right. Even the hair. Bravi, tutti!

"Pink Pride"
"Proudly Pink", from 2019, is a chic play of Barbie doll's signature color.

"This Suit Is Made for Walking"

"Walking Suit", from 2012, is another design and manufacture tour de force. And Barbie's make-up is fierce perfection.

"Eleganza Extravaganza"
"Boulevard" from 2001 set the golden standard for boxed fashion sets: suit, coat, hat, shoes, hose, jewelry, purse. A level of detail that today seems mythical. It is modeled by a Wonderbilly repainted "Sunday Best" Barbie. 

"Le Rouge to End All Rouges"
"Ravishing in Rouge" from 2001was an FAO Schwarz exclusive. Those were the days, my friends. We thought they'd never end...

"Let's Déjeuner" 

"Luncheon Ensemble" from 2013 featured a flowered turban. "Fashion Designer" from 2001, another FAO Schwarz exclusive, did not, but thanks to LizRetros, Barbie rocks it in these photos. 

"Fashion Designer" was an FAO Exclusive from 2001 that lovingly played tribute to Edith Head. 

"Let's Misbehave"

"Midnight Mischief" was another fabulous boxed fashion set from 2002. Modeled by a restyled Number 3 Lingerie, it's a testament to quality - from fabric selection to factory execution. 

"Platinum in Black"
Reminiscent of the classic combination of a 1964 platinum blonde Swirl Barbie in "Black Magic", "Cocktail Dress" was instantly iconic.

"Liquid Lunch"

2000's "Lunch at the Club" is part of the historic introduction of The Barbie Fashion Model Collection. This very first suit fashion set was cut slim and fitted and was accessorized to the hilt - even a bouquet of roses. 

"Everyone's a Fashion Editor"

The referential tone of the line extended beyond the legacy of Charlotte Johnson to include details - such as the large round black framed glasses of FAO Schwarz exclusive "Fashion Editor" - a nod to the iconic Carrie Donovan. Here The Editor approves of 2009's "Parisienne Pretty" bubble dress as modeled by 2016's "City Chic Suit" Barbie doll, restyled by Bobby Taylor. 

"Italian Nuptials"

"Principessa" from 2018, worn by a Lingerie Number 2, is the ultimate wedding ensemble for it makes the very chic decision of not doing another long wedding gown. 

"Apéritif?"

"Afternoon Suit" from 2011 was a BFC exclusive - membership had its privileges, right? - and a sensational take on Dior's New Look. And 1965's American Girl Barbie's hairstyle. 

"Haute Everything"

2007's "Haute Monde, another BFC exclusive, is a gorgeous redhead in another triumphant interpretation of the little black dress. Though there is nothing little about this one - it's utterly gorgeous and very much a grand gesture. 

"Simple Pleasures" 

2016's "Camel Coat" illustrates how Best kept Barbie wearing real clothing that is beautifully was fad-free and functional. 

"Empire of Pink"

2016's "US Convention" is a title that does not convey the beauty of this empire-waisted gown inspired by late 1960s party couture.

Holiday Window Shopping

Time to go on a fantasy window shopping excursion from the comfort of your favorite chair. Come on everybody - here we go! 

Over at Mattel, a Silkstone Francie sports a fab version of "Swirley Cue" by Julia. 


A Hertwig bisculoid lad, circa 1930s, stands ready to inhabit a lucky dollhouse.


At Studio Uoo, a Bone Walker Nico Lampe stands proud in his separates by Dress My Love. 

At Virgin-Archer's, Anouk, in Rosina Haskell, is ready to deck the halls. 

Cute as buttons, Dolly Darlings by Hasbro will fill many a stocking! 

A Black Lilli Lalka 2 by Julian Kalinowski, in LizRetros, will be on everyone's letter to Santa. 

A fab Fabiola of Hollywood by Mike Buess brings cheer and Latin style to the holidays in her Aleida Ortiz red wonder. Accessories by Buess. 

At Mamzelle de Paris, Sophine, Emily, and Jolie Môme dolls, by Kimo Ben, will delight children of all ages. 

At Bogue's Vogues, a "Classic Black Dress" Barbie epitomizes goddess of glamour. 

 

Ken! OOAK Ken, reimagined by Joey Versaw, is dapper in his cool weather wear by Stacey.

At Madame Alexander's a Black Cisssette, in LizRetros, is sure to be on high demand!

At Uneeda's, Tiny Teen Bob is ready to be the perfect escort in LizRetros' dinner jacket set. 

At Renwal's, a dollhouse beauty, made iconic by the art of Laurie Simmons, leaves us dreaming of Christmas morning surprises!